Your Guide to Visiting Eyam Plague Village, Derbyshire

Nestled in the heart of Derbyshire’s Peak District, the charming Eyam Village gained historical significance during the plague outbreak of 1665. Now nicknamed as Eyam Plague Village, the destination is a popular choice for people wanting to explore its dark history.

Have you heard of Eyam Plague Village? Despite its morbid nickname, Eyam Village is a gorgeous and very historic village to visit in the Peak District, best known for its associations with the Great Plague of 1665-1666. Today, Eyam is often referred to as the ‘Plague Village’ and is remembered for its courage and resilience. People visit the plague village in Eyam today to explore its history through landmarks like the boundary stones, preserved cottages and the Eyam Museum.

Eyam has been on my list for a long time and I finally got to visit in the heart of autumn this year! I’m so glad I visited during the autumn season as driving through the Peak District to reach this quaint village was a beautiful experience in itself. Eyam Village is wonderful to explore and looks truly charming in the autumn – which is a weird way to explain a village with such a dark history!

But as I said before, despite being known as the Plague Village, there is little morbid about the village today. Of course, there are sad undertones when you explore and learn about its dark history and the victims who lost their lives during the plague, but the village itself is a very warm and welcoming place to visit.

If you’re interested in morbid tourism, Eyam Plague Village is a must-visit. But if you’re not? This quaint village filled with history is still a wonderful day out.

A Brief History of The Plague Village, Eyam

So, as usual, I’m going to share a brief history of Eyam Plague Village and its remarkable response to the Black Death. But I’m not going to share everything as that would eliminate the point of visiting yourself! And I truly believe that as much as there is to learn online, you can’t really grasp the concept of everything that happened until you visit yourself.

Up until the events of 1655, Eyam (pronounced ‘eem’ by the way!) was a relatively unknown rural village. There is evidence of early occupation by Ancient Britons on the surrounding moors more than 4000 years ago, but Anglo-Saxons were the village’s first residents.

The name Eyam means ‘village by the water’ and was named ‘Aiune’ by the Anlgo-Saxons. You can spot lots of stone water troughs throughout the village, dating all the way back to their 1588 water system. Apart from the plague, the village is also known for its old mines that have been there since Roman times and the silk and cotton mills from the 18th and 19th centuries. The village’s oldest building, Laburnum Cottage, dates all the way back to 1550!

Why Is Eyam Called the ‘Plague Village’?

The bubonic plague first entered England in 1348 and hit the world in three waves between the 1300s and 1990s. But the plague reached Eyam in the summer of 1665, via a flea-infested bundle of cloth arriving from London for the local tailor, Alexander Hadfield. The first victim of the plague was George Viccars – Alexander’s assistant. George noticed the bundle was damp and opened it in what is now referred to as ‘The Plague House’. Within days, George fell ill and died a horrible death. 

From here, the plague ravaged through the small village of Eyam. In the space of 14 months, 260 villagers (out of a total population of 800) died from the plague. 76 families were affected by it and some families (such as the Thorpe family) were wiped out completely. 

This was actually fairly normal for towns and villages affected by the plague throughout the UK. It spread quickly and claimed so many lives in such a short amount of time. But what makes Eyam so famous and what gave it the nickname ‘The Plague Village’, is because the quarantined themselves from the rest of the country to help stop the spread of the disease. 

At the height of the pandemic, villages turned to Reverend William Mompesson for leadership. William, alongside Thomas Stanley, introduced several precautions to slow the spread of the plague from May 1666. 

Notably, they decided to quarantine the entire village from the rest of the country – no one was allowed to leave and no one was allowed to enter. Merchants from surrounding villagers would bring supplies and simply leave them on boundary stones surrounding the village. Villagers made holes in the rocks and filled them with vinegar to disinfect the money left there. 

Other measures to contain the disease included families burying their own dead and church services relocated to the natural amphitheatre of Cucklett Delph.

But it worked! The plague ran its course over 14 months and eventually the last death was recorded in November 1666. Although the plague claimed over 30% of Eyam’s population, the sacrifices they made may have saved thousands of lives. Had they not quarantined, the disease would have spread to more villages and no doubt claimed more victims.

Walking around the quaint village today, you can spot lots of plaques and spots in memory of those who lost their lives throughout that time. They all serve as stark reminders of the sacrifices made and the courage of the villagers of Eyam. 

The Best Things to See in Eyam Plague Village

If you’re visiting Eyam Plague Village for its dark history, there is a lot to see – and it’s easy to miss some of it! There are also lots of lovely walks you can take through the village and within its surrounding areas too. Here’s what not to miss in Eyam:

Eyam Museum

Eyam Museum (or Eyam Plague Museum, as it’s sometimes referred to), should be your first stop when visiting Eyam. It’s a great way to be introduced to the history of the village and it’s right across from the main public car park in Eyam, making it a great starting point. The museum tells the story and history of Eyam, and of course, goes into much further detail about the plague in 1665-1666. It’s a small museum, so you’ll only need an hour max here, but it’s fascinating.

There’s also a lovely gift shop, which sells a great collection of history books and recommendations for things to do in the area. I bought a book which outlines ‘walks to weird and wonderful places in the Peak District’!

Eyam Plague Cottages

As you leave the museum and start to wander through the main area of the village, take time to view the original Eyam Plague Cottages. Based along the main road leading through Eyam, you’ll find:

• Plague Cottage – where George Viaccars, the first victim of the plague died and the Cooper family who died there
• Rose Cottage – where nine members of the Thorpe family lived and died
• The Hawksworth Family cottage – where Peter, the third victim of the plague and his son, aged just 15 months old, died

There are actually only three plague cottages, all in a row, and each is marked with green plaques in memory of the victims. They’re easy to spot, but please remember that people do live there today, so be respectful! 

You’ll also find that Plague Cottage has a small donation box outside, urging people to donate what they can to support communities in the village. When we visited, donations were in support of the Village Eyam Mechanics Institute. So if you do visit and take photos, as many people do, try to remember to bring some change so you can give something back to the community in return.

Eyam Church

This historic church played only played a small part in the plague. The graveyard is particularly beautiful to explore, with stunning historic graves, including a tombstone with a skull and crossbones on the side.

Inside the church, you’ll find a beautiful stained-glass window that tells the story of the plague, and William Mompesson’s wife, Catherine, was buried here. She died of the plague in August 1666 and was the only person laid to rest in the churchyard at the time of the plague. Her tomb is found to the right of the main door. A wreath of red roses is laid on her tomb on every Plague Sunday. Unsurprisingly, Catherine’s ghost is said to haunt the churchyard – her spirit is said to pause as she passes the often photographed Celtic Cross close to her tomb.

Fun fact: Eyam Church’s burial register has a record of someone named “Anna the traveller, who according to her own account, was 136 years of age”!

Cucklet Church

During the plague, it wasn’t safe to gather at Eyam Church. Instead, the villagers would head to Cucklet Church – not actually a church but a limestone outcrop that formed an archway high above the valley below. Whilst William Mompesson would stand here to preach, the congregation would stand on the opposite bank. It’s obviously no longer used for this purpose, however, on Plague Sunday (the Sunday before August Bank Holiday Monday), a procession walks from Eyam Church to here and they hold a service to mark the anniversary of the plague.

Cucklet Church is around a 15-minute walk outside of Eyam Plague Village.

The Lydgate Graves

As you head out of the main area of the village, you’ll spot The Lydgate Graves (especially if you take the route to find the Boundary Stone). Here are the graves of George Darby and his daughter, Mary, surrounded by a walled enclosure. During the quarantine, families had to bury their own dead, so it was George’s wife who sadly had to bury her husband and daughter here.

Mompesson’s Well

Mompesson’s Well is a little way out (a 25-minute uphill walk – or you can take a three-minute drive and carefully park on the side of the road), but it’s another very historic spot in Eyam.

In the 1600s, the road here would have simply been a dirt track leading between Sheffield and Buxton. Beside it, you’ll find a historic well which could have been used as a refreshment stop for horses and cattle at the time. It’s a natural spring, and during the plague, it was used as another safe place where people could leave food and supplies. The well only got its name after the plague and was named after William Mompesson, who introduced the idea of quarantining Eyam.

The Boundary Stone

The Boundary Stone is a little way out of the village (I’d say a short 15/20 minute easy walk to get there) but it’s definitely worth the hike. The walk to get there is really pretty, and just a few feet beyond the stone, you’ll be able to enjoy some really stunning views across parts of the Peak District National Park.

The Boundary stone is exactly halfway between Eyam Plague Village and Stoney Middleton and was one of the main boundary stones used during the plague. I explained briefly above, but it’s this stone here where merchants would leave food, medicine and trinkets for the villagers, to help them survive their quarantine from the rest of the country. According to local tradition, the villagers didn’t actually have to pay for their food or medical supplies and the Earl of Devonshire provided them with most of what they needed.

Today, the stone symbolises the tragedy that occurred in 1665 and stands as a testimony to the villagers of Stoney Middleton who supplied them with the necessities to survive. 

Legends Surrounding the Boundary Stone

There are two tragedies and legends associated with the Boundary Stone and this area of Eyam. The first is the sad story of two lovers – Emmott Syddal and Rowland Torre – who suffered heartbreak in 1665. Emmott was a young girl betrothed to Rowland, who was from Stoney Middleton.

Emmott lived in the cottage across from Mary Cooper’s cottage (aka the Plague Cottage), where the plague began. Once Eyam was quarantined, it became far too dangerous for Rowland to visit Emmot in the village. So instead, they met in secret at the boundary stone and would keep their distance, only looking at each other in silence. When Emmott stopped appearing at their meeting place in April 1666, Rowland continued to visit the area, hoping that she might turn up. In fact, he was one of the first people to re-enter the village once it was pronounced safe again. However, he was heartbroken to discover that Emmott had indeed lost her life in April.

Looking towards the cliff to the right of the Boundary stone, you’ll see the spot where a young woman named Hannah Baddely attempted to commit suicide after being jilted by her lover William Barnsley. In 1762, she jumped off the cliff but miraculously survived when her petticoats acted like a parachute on the way down! She survived, but died two years later from natural causes – sadly, still unmarried.

The Riley Graves

Like the boundary stone, The Riley Graves are a little way out of the centre of Eyam, but they are an easy 20-minute walk. If you’re short on time, you’ll only be able to visit one or the other!

The Riley Graves are perhaps the most daunting of all the burial spots in Eyam Plague Village. In the space of just eight days, Mrs Hancock had to bury her husband and six children. It must have been so tragic for her. She actually survived the plague and went on to live in Sheffield with her eldest son. Many years later, a descendant of the family returned to Eyam, found the scattered headstones of the family, and arranged them around Mr Hancock’s statue.

Humphrey Merrill’s Tomb

Another historic spot to visit in Eyam is Humphrey Merrill’s Tomb. Humphrey Merrill was the village’s herbalist, but unfortunately, he died of the plague in September 1666. His wife survived, as did Andrew Merrill who was thought to be a relation to Humphrey. 

Andrew avoided the plague entirely by going to live on the edge of Eyam Moor! He built a small hut to live in with his pet cockerel until the infection had gone. It was only when he woke up one morning and found his Cockerel missing that he discovered the plague was over. He searched for the cockerel and found it where it used to roost in the village – which Andrew took to mean that the plague was finally over.

Humphrey was buried behind his house and today you can visit his tombstone, inscribed with his initials and the year 1666. 

Take a Guided Walk or Eyam Pilgrimage 

One of the best ways to see all of the historical spots and dark history destinations in and around Eyam is to take a guided walk. I would recommend picking up a map and walk guide from Eyam Museum (our first stop), as this is really comprehensive. It outlines all the historical spots to visit and a long walk broken down into six sections, so you can do as little or as much as you want. It also includes approximate walking times to places outside of the village, which I found really helpful. You’ll find all points of interest in Eyam on this map, as well as some further out like the Roman Baths and Stoney Middleton Church. 

You could even consider a pilgrimage or walking holiday through the Peak District! There are plenty of options to consider, but one popular pilgrimage starts from Ilam in the Manifold Valley and winds up through Peak District National Park, visiting twelve churches along the way and ending the pilgrimage in Eyam village to culminate in a celebration of the heroism of the people of Eyam during the plague. Of course, you could also start in Eyam and do it the other way around!

Other Things to Do in Eyam

Aside from the dark history associated with the plague, there are still many other great things to do in the small village Eyam. Here’s what else is worth exploring in this pretty village:

Food & Drink in Eyam

As always, I do recommend grabbing a drink or a bite to eat in the village, so you’re giving back to the community. I had the most delicious cheese toastie from Eyam Tea Rooms, whilst my partner enjoyed a tasty pie. Eyam Tea Rooms also has gifts to buy inside. The Miners Arms is a great choice to eat, drink and stay. It’s also one of the most haunted buildings in the village!

Eyam Information Centre

The Eyam Information Centre is a little information spot where you can pick up leaflets and learn more about the village and what to do nearby. Even if you don’t head inside, it’s well worth visiting this spot anyway as there are information boards outside and Eyam Stocks – which are a historical landmark!

This is where people were held and humiliated for their wrongdoings back in the 17th, 18th & 19th centuries. They were mainly used by Eyam’s Barmote court to hold local lead miners! Nowadays it’s just a fun photo opportunity, but it looks particularly historic in the autumn, surrounded by all the colourful leaves. 

Here, you’ll also find The Brick House. It stands out because it’s the only building in Eyam built with brick, as opposed to local stone like all the others. The grade II listed building also used to be an inn called The Stag’s Parlour!

The Revolving Roasting Jack

A really fun but odd and quirky thing to do in Eyam is to see the Revolving Roasting Jack! This historic landmark (and fun photo opportunity!) is a machine that comes from an old UK tradition, where meat is roasted and rotated as it cooks. 

They’re not used too often anymore, but every September you can catch this old Eyam tradition in action at the village carnival! If you’re like me, however, I’d recommend just grabbing a photo at this historical spot any other time of year. I looked online at some carnival photos and seeing the revolving roasting Jack in action was a little grim!

Eyam Hall & The Courtyard at Eyam Hall

Just across from the Eyam Stocks is the historic Eyam Hall. This beautiful historic manor house dates back to the 17th century and was built just six years after the plague in Eyam. It’s a stunning example of the continued survival and growth of the village after the plague.

Nowadays, it’s a wedding venue! It’s not open to the public except for select days when you can take an audio tour and explore inside.

Adjacent to Eyam Hall is a lovely courtyard area filled with shops and restaurants, all based in pretty old farm buildings. We didn’t have time to explore this area properly as we were very distracted by a cat (more on that later!), but I’d like to go back as the shops did look lovely.

Grave Notes: when exploring Eyam, you might come across a really friendly and adorable cat called Angel! This sweet cat is very friendly towards visitors but is unfortunately a little sick – which is why he/she is so thin. But don’t worry – they’re very looked after! I wanted to include this note because we spotted this cat and were besotted but also really worried.

We spent lots of time fussing over them but also very worried about how thin they were looking. After exploring the village and wondering what we could do to help, we luckily spotted the cat again and followed it around to a car park, where a notice was attached to the wall explaining that he/she is all fine and very looked after. Phew. We were this close to taking Angel home with us as we were convinced they were a stray! So spotting this notice really eased our minds.

I don’t feel a map in this blog post is totally necessary for your visit to Eyam Plague Village, as I said before, you can pick up some really helpful ones from Eyam Museum when you arrive. However, I know some of the spots a bit further out of the village might require some further planning, like where to park if you drive to Mompesson’s Well or if you want to check in advance where to find Humphrey Merrill’s Tomb, as it’s not actually marked on Google Maps. So hopefully this will help anyway!

Things to Do Nearby to Eyam

If you just plan to spend a few hours in Eyam and want to continue your trip elsewhere, there’s lots of great stuff to do nearby. Chatsworth House, Bakewell and Haddon Hall are all within 30 minutes of Eyam. I would definitely recommend taking a hike in the surrounding hills of Eyam though. I was just there for a day and absolutely fell in love with the beautiful scenery surrounding the village! If you’re looking for something more further afield or things to do as part of a longer trip, the spooky city of York is only an hour and 35 minutes drive away too.

The Need-To-Knows

Eyam Plague Village is nestled in the heart of the Peak District, making it the perfect location for outdoor lovers. It’s also a great place to visit as part of a longer trip – the village is quite small but has a lot to see, so I’d say one afternoon is about enough time you need here. Perhaps a little longer if you want to walk some of the longer guided routes that surround the village!

The village itself is quite remote (with lots of fantastic hikes to take nearby), so the easiest way to get there is definitely by car. There’s limited free street parking within the village, or a large and affordable car park right in front of the museum.

But if you’re travelling by public transport, you can catch a bus from the nearby villages of Buxton, Sheffield, and Tideswell. You can also take a train to Grindleford, then a bus to Eyam.

As for accessibility, I would say the majority of the village is accessible for wheelchairs, but there is a slight decline into the village from the museum and car park. The locations based outside of the village are not accessible, however, as to get to them you have to traverse uneven ground, dirt tracks and hills.

Why Is Eyam Called the ‘Plague Village’?

Eyam is called Eyam Plague Village because of its significance in the Great Plague of 1665-1666. Eyam is best known for the bravery and resilience the villagers showed when the village was quarantined from the rest of the country to help prevent the plague from spreading further. It’s also the reason why Eyam village is famous as a dark history location.

How Many People Died of Plague in Eyam?

260 (out of 800) villagers died from the bubonic plague in Eyam – and sadly, some families were wiped out completely. However, thousands of lives were saved in the process thanks to the strict quarantine placed on the village.

I thought Eyam Village was a wonderful place to visit and I was surprised at how warm and welcoming it felt, despite its sad past! In fact, unless you’re visiting to discover its associations with the plague, it’s easy to see it as just a really lovely village which is ideal for people who love the outdoors or exploring quaint villages in the UK. But if you are interested in dark history, I would absolutely recommend visiting Eyam Plague Village. It’s a really fascinating place and even if you know a lot about the plague village, you can’t really grasp the endurance and bravery the villagers displayed until you visit yourself.