From haunted ruins to star-filled skies, Wales is the perfect place for a dark tourism meets stargazing escape. This trip blended ghostly legends, historic sites, and celestial views – and it was one of the most magical adventures I’ve ever had.
Late this summer, I had the most magical time stargazing in Wales – a trip that seemed like years in the making! What started as a simple idea to find some clear night skies to watch the Perseid meteor shower turned into a magical, spooky break that combined astrotourism and dark tourism in Wales.
Who knew the two would go hand in hand so well? I certainly didn’t!
During our trip to Wales, we visited historic ruins, haunted inns, and not one, not two but three castles on a hastily planned castle crawl. We even had time to squeeze in a visit to the world’s first book town!
Safe to say, it was epic. Before I dive into what we got up to and how you can plan your own dark tourism and stargazing weekend in Wales, let’s take a quick look at what they both mean and how well they tie in together.
What is Dark Tourism & Astrotourism?
Though traditionally defined as visiting sites linked to death, tragedy, or suffering, dark tourism has expanded in recent years to include much lighter spooky tourism too – think scare attractions, ghost hunts in haunted castles, or simply wandering through eerie graveyards and forgotten ruins.
And with over 600 historic castles and ruins (plus five of Britain’s folklore & superstition locations!), it’s no surprise that Wales is a hub for dark tourism.
Astrotourism, on the other hand, is all about the night sky – from chasing meteor showers and stargazing during celestial events to visiting observatories and exploring space-related folklore. It’s been growing steadily in popularity, and in 2025, noctourism was even named one of the year’s biggest travel trends.
Once again, Wales is the perfect setting. It’s home to two of only 23 International Dark Sky Reserves in the world, as well as a Dark Sky Park. On top of that, Wales has more than 30 Dark Sky Discovery Sites – UK-recognised stargazing locations with minimal light pollution, protected for their scientific, natural, and cultural value.
Before we dive into everything we got up to, I have to talk about where we stayed – because it was such a huge part of what made this trip so special. Our campsite wasn’t just somewhere to sleep, it was the very heart of our dark-tourism-meets-stargazing adventure.
Where We Stayed: Llanthony Priory Campsite
We stayed at a campsite in the Vale of Ewyas, just seven miles north of the market town of Abergavenny in Monmouthshire. Also known as the ‘Gateway to Wales’, Abergavenny sits more or less right on the border, making it the perfect pick if you’re only visiting for a short break and don’t want to travel too far.
The Vale of Ewyas is filled with stunning scenery, beautiful hikes and tons of history – from castles to priories and a whole bunch of historic churches. We actually stayed by Llanthony Priory (more on that soon!), about 25 minutes from Abergavenny, yet still right in the heart of the Vale and the Black Mountains. It was remote enough to enjoy stunning clear skies every night and a slower pace of life, while still being close to plenty of attractions and things to do.
In this area of Wales alone, we found haunted inns, old churches and moody landscapes – all within a half-hour drive of our campsite.
Our base for this dark-tourism-meets-astrotourism break was Llanthony Priory Campsite – a back-to-basics site overlooked by the haunting ruins of Llanthony Priory. It certainly was a unique campsite!
At just £5 per person per night, it truly was a no-frills setup – we were basically paying for the pitch alone. The site has running water and public toilets next to the priory, but that’s about it! For me – my first proper camping trip as an adult – it was pretty much ideal. I wanted the full experience, and honestly, I couldn’t fault it. The only thing I really missed was a shower – but the affordability and beauty of the location more than made up for it.
With no signal and only the stunning views of the priory and the Black Mountains to entertain us, it really was bliss – and so lovely to switch off from technology.
As for food, there’s the unique cellar bar within Llanthony Priory itself, plus The Half Moon pub just across the field – both within walking distance. Otherwise, you’ll need to drive into Abergavenny or head to one of the nearby country pubs.
The most special part of it all? Being able to camp beside the ruins and explore them after dark for the meteor shower.
Best Things to Do for Dark Tourism & Stargazing in Monmouthshire
If you’re planning a dark tourism and stargazing break in the Brecon Beacons, Monmouthshire is the perfect place to base yourself. From haunted pubs and crooked churches to castle ruins and starlit skies, there’s a little bit of everything for lovers of the eerie and the celestial.
Here’s what we did on our dark tourism and stargazing trip – and why I think it’s the perfect spooky weekend escape.
Llanthony Priory
The 900-year-old ruins of Llanthony Priory were once an Augustinian priory, founded in the early 12th century by a group of Norman monks who were drawn to the remote beauty of the Vale of Ewyas. Sadly, the priory suffered repeated attacks during periods of conflict between the English and Welsh, and eventually fell into ruin in the 16th century. Today, its gothic arches and crumbling walls offer a mix of historic ambience and striking views of the dramatic ruins against the backdrop of the Black Mountains.
As for its dark tourism twist, Llanthony Priory is said to be haunted by a Benedictine monk, spotted wandering the ruins alongside unexplained coughing and moments of chilling terror.
It’s also perfect for stargazing. Brecon – Llanthony Priory is officially a Dark Sky Discovery Site and is super atmospheric after dark. We visited for stargazing for two nights (our campsite was a mere 60-second walk away!). The first night, we arrived too late – just as the on-site hotel staff were heading to bed around midnight – so we were politely turned away. This was probably a good thing in hindsight, since the full moon that night made it so hard to see the stars!
The second night, we trekked up just after it got dark, found a spot nestled within the ruins, laid beneath the stars and watched the Perseids. For much of the time, we were the only ones there, and the moon had since disappeared behind us. It was perfect. With no one else around (and remembering the stories of the ghostly monk that roams the ruins) it was a little spooky, but once the stars began to appear, it was so magical and beautiful.
We managed to spot a good few shooting stars/meteors this night, and they were so bright and breathtaking! I still remember seeing one shoot down and past the ruins’ tower. In that very moment, it hit me – I was watching an actual meteor shower inside 900-year-old ruins!
How lucky am I? To not only see such a beautiful astronomical event, but to watch it in these spooky, atmospheric and historic ruins in the middle of nowhere?
It was truly an amazing moment that I will remember for the rest of my life. There are plenty of places to watch the stars, but this one felt like something out of a gothic dream. If you ever get the opportunity to go stargazing in Wales, this is the place to do it.
Need to know: Llanthony Priory is free to visit and open to the public year-round. It’s managed by Cadw and officially open daily from 10am to 4pm — but since there are no gates or ticket booths, many people visit outside these hours for photos or stargazing.
That said, after-hours access is at the discretion of the owners of the hotel/bar on-site, so it’s best to check in with them first.
There’s also a hotel right inside the ruins and the cosy Cellar Bar, which serves food and drinks.
The Most Crooked Church in Britain
St Martin’s Church, Cwmyoy is a historic church built in the 12th century, perched on a hill that overlooks the Black Mountains. It’s most famously known as the most crooked Church in Britain, with its tower leaning over six feet – which is actually more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa!
The crooked tower is the most visible example of this unusual feature, although the whole church itself is crooked. This is because it was built on unstable ground, though local legend claims it was caused by a terrible earthquake at the exact moment Jesus was nailed to the cross on Calvary.
In reality, the church was built on land that has a long geological history of landslides. The ground has moved bit by bit over centuries, which is why the church has been able to adapt rather than collapse.
Inside, you’ll also find the historic Cwmyoy Crucifix — a 13th-century stone cross with a rare carving of Christ. Once used to mark a pilgrim’s route through the Black Mountains, it was stolen in 1967 and eventually turned up in an antique shop in London! These days, it’s safely and permanently fixed to the church floor.
Sadly, the church was closed when we visited, but we loved exploring the grounds just as the sun was beginning to set. The atmosphere was incredible – the light, the silence, the views – and it made for some of our favourite photos of the trip. High up in the hills, it was so quiet and peaceful that I didn’t want to leave.
Need to know: The church sits at the top of a narrow, winding lane (classic Wales!) and the climb can be steep. There’s no official car park, but you can pull into a small lay-by right outside the gate. It’s still a working church with regular services, so always be respectful when visiting.
The Skirrid Inn
The Skirrid Inn (also known as The Skirrid Mountain Inn) doubles as both Wales’ oldest pub – and the most haunted! At 900 years old, this fascinating building is filled with character, charm and history and is a must-visit for anyone exploring dark tourism in Wales.
At first glance, this Grade II listed building looks like a cosy and traditional pub, with old stone walls, timber beams and crackling fires. But then you begin to notice the little quirks inside, like banners and newspaper clippings adjoining the walls, sharing stories of dark history and hauntings… or an actual hanging beam (and rope) on display, where over 180 people were reportedly hanged. Grim.
Throughout history, the inn has been a public meeting house, an ale house, a courthouse and a jail. In fact, the upper floor of the inn was originally used as a courtroom where people were tried, found guilty and sentenced to death.
Just outside this room, people were hanged from the staircase beam – and the rope marks are still visible today. While the exact number isn’t known, it’s believed at least 180 people were executed here between the 12th and 17th centuries.
Both the first and last hangings were for sheep stealing.
It’s no surprise that it’s considered Wales’ most haunted inn! The walls are lined with photographs and newspaper clippings all about the phenomena that take place here.
Staff and guests have reported seeing apparitions of people being hanged and the unexplained sensation of a noose tightening around their necks, as well as reports of eerie shadow figures and sudden drops in temperature.
The most well-known spirits said to haunt the inn include the infamous Judge Jeffreys and a former landlady, Fanny Price. Oh, and the Skirrid Inn is known to have its own poltergeist too, with reports of doors slamming shut, glasses being thrown, and objects moving without explanation.
I could go on forever… but I won’t, because I’ve taken a much deeper dive into The Skirrid Inn and its haunted history here.
Ghosts aside, The Skirrid Inn is a welcoming place! We stopped by for a couple of drinks when we first arrived in Wales, then again for a really hearty, traditional pub dinner the following night. It was so tasty. It’s much bigger inside than it looks as well, and one of those places you can’t help but wander through – every nook and cranny has something to discover. I loved that it had old photographs, articles and information plaques all around too – there was always something to look at.
If you’re staying in Llanthony like we were, there aren’t really that many pubs around. So if you’re planning a spooky trip through South Wales, make sure the Skirrid Inn is on your route – haunted or not, it’s unforgettable.
St Issui’s Church, Patrishow
Another historic church worth visiting is St Issui’s Church, Patrishow. Not only does this church offer more fantastic views across the valley, but it also holds a spooky little secret: a skeleton doom painting inside!
Inside this quaint little church, you’ll spot an eerie doom painting – a skeleton clutching a scythe, a spade, and an hourglass. The painting represents Time and serves as a reminder that our days are numbered – so we should make the most of them!
Strangely, the painting has been whitewashed multiple times over the centuries… yet always seems to reappear. Spooky or what?
The rest of the church is so pretty and really peaceful to visit. It’s a bit of a steep climb to get there, and the narrow lanes are no joke (my car almost didn’t make it!), but trust me – it’s worth it!
I actually wish we’d had more time to explore more of Wales’ churches – so many of them hide curious secrets and come with dramatic views. But perhaps that’s for another trip!
The Three Castles of Monmouthshire
Wales is home to around 600 castles – so if you’re visiting, you simply have to explore at least one. On our short trip, we only planned to visit White Castle, but after learning it was part of a trio of historic fortresses known as The Three Castles, we ended up doing a spontaneous mini castle crawl!
The Three Castles – White Castle, Grosmont Castle, and Skenfrith Castle – were built by the Normans in the 11th century to protect the route between Wales and Hereford. Although they’re not the most famous or dramatic castles in Wales, they’re steeped in history and perfect if you’re short on time but still want a good castle fix. You can drive between all three in about 25 minutes.
White Castle (aka Llantilio Castle)
We started with White Castle, and I’m so glad we did – because out of all three, this one was my favourite! It’s also the best preserved, with huge curtain walls, defensive towers, and a striking water-filled moat that surrounds the inner ward.
Originally built in the late 11th century and later rebuilt in stone in the 13th century, it’s such a scenic spot to wander. The views of the surrounding countryside were gorgeous and the whole place had a storybook feel to it.
If you’re only visiting one of the three, make it this one.
Grosmont Castle
Next, we drove to Grosmont Castle, which felt very different. It’s tucked behind a sleepy little village, and although both the village shop and pub were closed when we arrived, the castle ruins themselves were still worth the visit.
While it’s not as intact as White Castle, Grosmont does have a pretty wooden bridge leading over what was once a moat and into the ruins. You can walk around the site and make out key features like the gatehouse and what would’ve been the accommodation rooms. It’s quiet, peaceful, and felt like stepping back in time.
Skenfrith Castle
Our final stop was Skenfrith Castle, which had the least to explore – and looking back, I wish we’d visited this one first instead of last!
The ruins are still interesting, especially the central circular keep and the crumbling walls around it. But what stood out the most here was the setting: the castle sits right beside the river, and on the hot day we visited, it was packed with families paddling and swimming. If we’d remembered our swimwear, we would’ve joined them!
Skenfrith is the only low-lying fortress of the three – meaning it was built on flat ground, unlike the hilltop castles at White and Grosmont.
The surrounding village is also really pretty and I’d love to go back one day to explore it properly.
Are the Three Castles of Monmouthshire Worth Visiting?
If you’re unsure which Welsh castles to squeeze into your itinerary, the Three Castles make a great option for a mini castle crawl. While they’re not as grand as some of the more famous castles in Wales, they’re packed with history – and their close proximity makes it an easy road trip if you’re staying nearby. You can also take a 19-mile circular hiking/walking route linking all three which sounds fun!
Bonus Stop: Murder and Mayhem Bookstore, Hay-on-Wye
A little out of the way from Monmouthshire is Hay-on-Wye, the world’s first official book town! It’s only about a 40-minute drive away and makes the perfect detour on your way home from Wales, especially since it sits right on the border.
Though Hay-on-Wye isn’t strictly a dark tourism or stargazing destination, you have to check out the brilliant Murder and Mayhem Bookshop, tucked right in the heart of the village. This tiny shop is bursting with classic horror novels, true crime titles, and even a few ghost stories. It’s decked out in blood-red walls, shelves that creak under the weight of old books, and spooky little details like skulls in the windows. It almost feels like stepping into a Sherlock Holmes mystery or an old Victorian crime den.
Good luck limiting yourself once inside though. It took me forever to choose just a few books because I wanted them all!
The rest of Hay-on-Wye might not be spooky, but if you’re a bookworm like me, it’s absolutely worth exploring. Just make sure you allow a full day to explore – we popped in during our drive home and only had a couple of hours, which wasn’t nearly enough. I’ll definitely be returning soon!
Planning Your Stargazing Trip to Monmouthshire
If you’re feeling inspired to plan your own dark skies and dark tourism adventure in Monmouthshire, here are a few practical tips to help you get started:
Where is Monmouthshire?
Located in southeast Wales along the border with England, Monmouthshire is a region known for its ancient ruins, rural villages and stunning natural landscapes. It borders the Brecon Beacons National Park and includes towns like Abergavenny, Monmouth and Usk.
How to Get There
Monmouthshire is easy to reach by car from most parts of southern England and Wales. Abergavenny is the main transport hub, with direct trains from Cardiff, Newport and Hereford, and connecting services from London and beyond. From Abergavenny, you’ll need a car to explore the more remote villages and dark sky locations.
Where to Stay
If you want to stargaze, stay somewhere remote! We stayed at the back-to-basics Llanthony Priory Campsite, nestled in the Vale of Ewyas. There are also cosy cottages, guesthouses and historic inns throughout the region.
When to Visit
For the best stargazing, visit between August and March, when the skies are darkest. If you’re hoping to catch the Perseids meteor shower, plan your trip for mid-August. Just keep an eye on the moon phase – a full moon can wash out the stars!
What to Pack
Bring warm layers (even in summer), a torch, walking boots, and if you’re camping, all your essentials – some areas are very remote with limited facilities. Don’t forget your camera and a stargazing app!
Final Thoughts: Dark Skies & Dark Tourism in Wales
From haunted inns and crooked churches to castle ruins and starry skies, our trip to Monmouthshire was the perfect blend of spooky history and celestial wonder. Whether you’re chasing ghosts, meteors, or just a unique weekend away, this eerie little corner of Wales offers something truly magical.
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